Winter 2025-2026

I’ve been remiss with posting lately; mainly because the early 2025-2026 winter season has proven to be one for the record books here in the NE US. Regular snow events and sustained low temps have helped provide pretty ideal conditions for skiing and ice climbing.

I started things off with a weekend of lift-served skiing at Killington VT. Vermont had not been on my radar previously because I had always dreaded the drive. Crunching the numbers though, Killington was about the same distance as my favorite NH destinations and was new terrain for me.

At first I stuck to the groomers, getting the feel of skiing again and doing some drills. The second day of the trip I made several good runs of Superstar and the first easy trees of my ski career.

I had attended a cool mountain film screening where I befriended a local ski patroller, B. We spent a couple days lift skiing together and she helped me immensely with my technique. In exchange I answered her questions about touring, training, and AT gear. I’ve yet to get her out on tour, but I think it’s inevitable that she will give it a try.

Icy bumps on Northstar – Killington VT

I quickly started back into AT resort skiing across NH and VT, but Killington remained a favorite. At the moment I’m a bit burned out on the crowds and familiar terrain, but at one point I briefly held the 3rd place spot on the AT vertical gain leader board.

One day, pretty full-on conditions were forecast and the lift serving Ramshead peak didn’t operate until noon. I made my first laps of the day under the frozen lift, chuckling to myself about the folly of mans machines and ripping a lone descent of Header on natural fresh snow.

Ripping a deserted blue piste on fresh snow – Killington VT

While I did manage to get a day of ice climbing in, it hasn’t been a big priority so far. This was my first time using my TRS system to climb ice, so I picked a relatively mild day and set off to the North end of Cathedral Ledge, a crag I knew well with easy top access.

The main issues in my mind were avoiding freeze-thaw conditions that could compromise my devices and just building experience with this system on snow/ice. I had a quick chat with one of the guides leading a large top roping group then hiked around to the top and dropped into the North End Pillars on my fixed line.

The ice was just barely too thin for solid screws so I decided against any re-fixing or redirects. I transitioned from rappel to my climbing devices and headed up the ~ 10 m vertical ice step.

I was climbing the wall, but I was working way too hard for it and my technique was beyond rusty. The self-feeding of my setup wasn’t great but I was able to deal with pulling slack, thinking of it like a lead. My real problem was that I was trying to climb the ice as if it was rock; heels too high, not setting a solid base with the feet, forgetting to look for subtle concavity for placements, wimpy swings due to not raising my elbows high.

This all resulted in quite a bit of hang-dogging and I didn’t want to take up a lane on the popular face, so I bumped my fixed line over to a short warm-up bulge in the woods and doubled my focus on the fundamental movement. I made lap after lap here until things really started to click. Overall I was happy with doing something that only a year ago would have felt just a bit too outside my skill set. I was totally in control and totally confident in my system.

Ice TRS laps on the woodshed bulge, North End Cathedral, NH

The reason I haven’t gotten into much ice climbing this year is due to an issue I’ve noticed in my training and goal setting. As much as I love the multi-sport pursuit, the reality is that I’ve reached a point where achieving my goals requires a more focused approach to training. Giving up some (but not all) of those pleasure/social days in favor of planned, specific training periodized around the seasons and specific goals.

This season, my primary goal is to compete in the Tuckerman Inferno Skimo race. While the exact course will depend on conditions of the day, the general plan involves 4-5k ft of gain, both skinning and bootpacking, followed by two steep skiing descents. The race benefits the Mount Washington Avalanche Center and you can donate at the above link. MWAC puts out a great forecast product that helps people like me make informed decisions about avalanche hazard in the White Mountains.

Light is right, mostly

To this end, I put together a light ski kit focused on moving fast uphill and confidently descending firm “ice coast” conditions. For the ski heads; these are Fischer transalp 82’s, mounted with brakeless ATK Kuluar bindings and being driven by 2022 Scarpa Maestrales. I was a bit shy on the tech bindings at first but they were mounted by pros and I’ve come to trust these orange weapons deeply. I got the Maestrales for a steal and though they are super packed out, they are still very impressive AT boots.

I can’t expect to hang with the serious skimo athletes but I feel that I have a very real shot at beating the cut-off times and finishing the whole course. I’m also very hungry to ski the headwall of Tucks. I’ve been following a canned training plan by Evoke Endurance and achieving good consistency. Workouts include trail running, hiking with a weighted pack, basic strength, specific muscular endurance sessions, and sub-max (2-4k ft) resort AT days descending challenging runs. I will definitely be writing a race report, whatever the outcome.

Sunday worship at the temple of the blue bird – Cranmore NH

I recently made a solo trip of the Pinkham Notch – Tuckerman – Sherburne tour during an incredible weather window in ~3.5 hrs while taking leisurely transitions. Equipment and fitness felt dialed, if anything I need to keep the focus on my skiing technique leading up to the event.

Descending the run out of Right Gully – Tuckerman Ravine NH

I’ve only been climbing at the rock gym once a week in a effort to keep up relationships with partners and hopefully maintain my skills. Interestingly, this feels like it’s helped my climbing somehow. Because I only have that one session each week I’m able to approach it with a higher level of focus and intent.

My conclusion from this is that my lead climbing is currently being limited more by my mindset and technique than any physical barrier. My standing goal is a clean lead of 5.10a and I’ve recently reached a level where I can consistently get on a 5.9 on-sight lead and finish the route with one or two takes.

My friend R is quickly becoming a 5.10+ sport climber and our partnership is starting to feel very cool. I’m beginning to truly trust him to hold my rope and trust myself to do what needs to be done. Overhangs, stemming, outside edging, thin step-through traverses. Things that used to shut me down on lead, are feeling more and more comfortable.