This fall I wanted to take full advantage of the season and focus on doing some good rock climbing. The temps were dropping, rains subsided, the window was upon us. Through the summer I had been climbing in the gym with a solid crew, R, C, and D.

Both C and I have some sport and trad experience while R and D are gym leaders excited to get outside more. I tried to take some initiative and organize weekend trips to local crags like Rumney – NH, Crow Hill – MA, and Den Rock Park – MA.

It was a new experience for me to be teaching others in the group and I certainly could have been more patient at times. Thankfully C has formal training in outdoor education and really enjoys the teaching aspect. Overall we had about 6 climbing days out together. In the end, I think everyone had enjoyable experiences and most importantly got home safe.

The Buffalo Coral Slab – Rumney NH

The first stop was Rumney, sport climbing mecca of the Northeast US. Being peak season we would generally do our best to arrive early in the morning and stick to more outlying areas. The Buffalo Coral and The Buffalo Pit seemed to fit the bill. Plenty of moderate climbs and lower traffic.

D Nearing the Anchors on Mild Horses (5.5)

The Buffalo Coral is a wide slab with a prominent overlap. The routes range from 5.3 to 5.9+ with nice bolts and open system anchors. Everyone was able to get on a lead here. I managed to lead all but the hardest route on the slab and got good practice setting up top ropes and cleaning.

Lowering off on the Rams Horns After Cleaning

The climbs on the Small Wall opposite the slab are short, steep and generally out of my grade. However, I did have a great time on Book of Sin; this line follows a chunky dihedral with an interesting crux to gain the anchors. R is a strong gym climber and readily sent this as his first outdoor sport lead!

Book of Sin (5.5)

We also made our way to the Buffalo Pit which holds the classic Lonesome Buffalo (5.8, 30 m), some good moderates, as well as cutting edge sport climbs. There is a large ledge on the right end of the Pit that’s perfect for practicing multi-pitch techniques at the bolted anchors.

On my first attempt at the Lonesome Buffalo, I couldn’t manage to get through the crux that comes just off the low tree ledge. I tried following the finger cracks up the slab but found they got too shallow. I worked on the moves for a while before deciding to bail by down climbing from the low ledge. R got on the route next and he managed to find some tree beta past the crux to ultimately send it! C also made a lead ascent that I followed on top rope. We found the easiest way up involved a foot jam between the tree and the rock to move right.

Start of Lonesome Buffalo (5.8, 30 m)

The upper section of the Buffalo pit has incredible views and lovely climbing. When the sun hits the rock high up on the routes, the area is filled with a swarm of Asian Lady Beatles (Harmonia axyridis) that just make it feel surreal.

One day on the right end of the Buffalo Pit we noticed bolts above a crazy looking, but feasible start up the wall. While standing on a block, one would reach up to a jug and pull on into some fun but powerful looking climbing. We were waiting for a party currently on Lonesome so we decided to head up this cool looking route without really knowing it’s grade or any beta. This would turn out to be Stone Worms (5.9)

I tried the lead first and managed to pull through the badass looking steep moves off the start; over a small roof and on to a low angle diagonal ramp that leads to a ledge. From the ledge, the route follows a beautiful left facing corner which opens up into tricky face climbing that constitutes the crux. This bit of the route confounded me and I took a couple small falls at the second-to-last bolt below the anchors.

I tried everything in the book, different sequences, pulling on the last draw, but I just couldn’t make it work. Ultimately I bailed from this bolt, leaving behind a pair of cheap lockers. Such is life. I really hope to come back to this route as the climbing was so enjoyable. R would later lead the route and recover my lockers! What a pal, and a beast of a climber.

Boardwalk ( 5.6, 25 m) – Crow Hill, MA

Back in MA, I had been thinking a lot about leading a trad line at Crow Hill called Boardwalk. It follows a nice crack up a moderate face and is easily protected. I had top roped the route several times but I never felt good enough about the start to just solo up and place the first piece. One must either start up a section of 5.9-ish slab or proceed up right on good holds before traversing left along a sloping foot rail.

My plan was to place the 1st piece on rappel and stick-clip it from the ground before making the traverse start. I fought with this in my head for a while but ultimately decided that placing this “ankle saver” piece was of course the right thing to do. There’s a pod at the bottom of the crack which takes a perfect #1 C4 cam and seems suspiciously like an old pin scar.

On my lead send, R gave me a great belay, carefully taking in slack without pulling me off as I traversed towards the piece. I made it up into the crack without testing the #1 and managed to place solid gear as I continued on. As a beginner trad leader, I tend to place plenty of gear and this climb was no exception.

Breaking out the Ladders – Den Rock, MA – photo by R

I also took R and D to Den Rock where I set up top ropes and at one point convinced them to give me a top rope belay while I aided a thin crack. I managed to pull off a couple good aid moves then blow a hook over the course of about 20 minutes. R and D found my attempt at iron mongery pretty humorous and I can’t blame them.

Tick list – Fall 2025

Rock climbing is an incredible thing. Sometimes I look back up at a route I just climbed and I can’t quite wrap my head around the fact that this is even possible. It all feels like a blur of emotion, deep breathing, impossible moves, trembling limbs on tiny holds, occasionally punctuated by brief glimpses of brilliance, joy, and a slow transformation of confidence into competence.

Rapping Into the Sunset – Crow Hill, MA – photo by D